Dr Martens Classic Shoes and Boots
Understanding Dr Martens Vocabulary

Dr. Martens Vocabulary

Z Stitch - Classic Dr. Marten’s stitch that joining the welt, upper and insole. Traditionally yellow.

  • Self Z Stitch - Z stitch that matches the color of the welt, either black or brown.
  • Plain stitch - Stitching hidden within the welt and the sole.

Welt - PVC edging that is sewn onto the upper, permanently stitching the upper together to the insole and providing a base to attach the sole

  • Z Welt - welt using our traditional yellow stitching or self stitch
  • Plain welt - welting where the stitching is hidden from view
  • Notched welt - welt with decorative notching
  • Grooved welt - welt with grooving detail similar to grooves in sole.

Stitchdown - Traditional method of shoe construction where the upper is stitched and cemented directly onto the sole without a welt

Leathers - We use Full Grain leathers. Full Grain leathers are the best leathers available. The leather is the strongest and most durable available.

  • Natural Grain - Leather that maintains many of the leather natural characteristics including texture and coloration.
  • Corrected Grain - Leathers that have been infused with polishes and wax to produce a more even surface. Used on Smooth leathers and Wacky Prints.

Butt Seam - Detail where two edges of leather are sewn together to create a raised edge.

Cap Toe - Style with an extra layer of leather running left to right over the ball of the foot.

Padded Collar - Extra padding around the topline of the shoe for added comfort and fit.

Upper - Pieces of leather sewn together to makeup the shoe

Upper Stitch - Stitching used to assemble leather pieces into an upper

  • Contrast upper stitch - detail using a contrasting color of stitch on a leather
  • Self upper stitch - detail using similar colored thread to the leather.

Apron Front - style with a layer of leather running along the edge of the front of the shoe.

Lace to Toe - Style where the laces extend from the ball of the foot to the top eyelets.

Open Waist - Style where there is an open area between the toe and heel. Similar to a Mary Jane style.

PVC sole - Traditional sole used by Dr Martens. Made of a PVC compound (Poly Vinyl Chloride) that makes the sole resistant to acid, oil, fat, petrol and alkali.

Blown sole - Sole made of the same material as our PVC sole but the PVC is blown into the mold mixing the PVC with air, making the soles lighter in weight.

Lorica - Material used for our vegetarian line. Made of cellulose coated fabric, the material is supple, durable, breathes and maintains many similar qualities as leather.

Last - The molds that leather is pulled around and attached to the insole, giving shape to the shoe. Similar in appearance to a shoe tree.

Pull - Feature of leather that when pulled, the leather changes color and a depth can be seen. Usually, the leather will lighten in color when pulled.


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However you may find answers to some of your question in our FAQ.